
Yesterday I went surfing. So I woke up
really early, dragged out my wetsuit and surfboard, made some coffee and a bagel to go, gave myself a motivational speech (about how even though it was going to be cold and maybe a little painful, I should brave it anyway), and drove over to downtown Orange to meet up with some Talbot friends. After a lot of waiting around for flakey friends, we finally made it to Doheny, only to find the ocean as flat as a pancake. So we kept driving, only to find the same lack of waves in San Clemente and San Onofre, too. So much for that NW swell that, according to a friend of a friend who checked the surf report online, promised to be on its way for sure. So we headed home, defeated but not too sad (at least in my case). Things I learned: 1) online surf reports (and friends of friends) are not as trustworthy as I thought, and 2) driving around in search of surf is actually more fun than surfing itself.